So much has happened, in Australia and the world, since my
last kitchen garden guide in December. Last year at this time we were in the
midst of the fires. More than ever, food security is at risk, making it
imperative that communities grow whatever they can for themselves. Tasmania can
produce most of what we need, starting in our back yards and those of our
neighbours and friends and on the small farms we see dotted about on the hills
and valleys of our beautiful state. Bush foods abound too and more and more plants
are becoming available at everyday outlets and specialty nurseries, propagated
in Tasmania, by Tasmanians, as it should be. We are so very fortunate; let’s
make use of our situation and grow food for one another. Check out ‘Crop Swaps’
near you and online.
Potting up seedlings
Locally grown seedlings are a great investment. Mostly,
those at the Cygnet market and other markets are grown from seed saved in
Tasmania, for Tasmanian conditions. If you, like me, quickly run out of space
to plant out winter crops, in the middle of the summer vegetable garden, then
transplanting punnet seedlings into individual pots is my suggestion. Brassicas
are quite happy to grow this way for quite a while but you will need to pot
them up again, into bigger pots, along the way. It is easy to protect them from
the cabbage moth, with a wire basket and lace curtain from the tip shop. I use
a cheap, basic potting mix to which I add some blood and bone and SeaMungus.
Greenhouse materials
I have a tiny, old, lean-to greenhouse attached to the
eastern side of my house. It has proven to be excellent in several ways.
1.
The sides are made of a heavy duty, greenish solarweave
film, which lets in lots of light but no direct sun, so everywhere in the
greenhouse is brilliantly light but nothing gets burnt or overheated, even on
the hottest day.
2.
Being a lean-to, it is quite low on the eastern
side so the sun comes through the sloping, plastic roof for quite a while. This
is old, floppy plastic film, that also is not clear. It works perfectly but if
starting again, I would use coreflute, for longevity.
3.
On the northern and southern ends there are
louvre windows, which I keep open most of the year. The door is also on the
southern side. A wire screen door would be nice, so animals can’t get in even
when the main door is open.
4.
An old brick wall runs in a U shape, along both
sides of where I walk in and centre path is also brick. This holds some heat
and keeps everything tidy on the raised beds. Instead of soil beds, I would
prefer staggered shelves as it really is not necessary to actually grow
vegetables for their whole life, in a greenhouse in Tasmania. I use it to start
things off, to protect plants from the wind and for cuttings etc. I do,
however, grow 6 large pots of basil in there and I have a sticky, nicotiana plant
which catches aphids and white fly, growing in the ground. In winter, I bring
some pots in, for frost protection, for example ornamental ginger.
5.
The greenhouse sticks out from the house on the
northern side and gets many hours of low, winter sun. This is perfect. It is
important to look at the angle of the sun from the horizon here, because 43
degrees south brings the sun very low in winter.
6.
The western side is the wall of the house so the
greenhouse is totally shaded, but still very light in summer, in the afternoon.
Pear and cherry slug
If you see tiny little black ‘worms’ on the leaves of your
pears, cherries, quinces and even plums and the leaves are turning brown and
crisp, you have this slug. A simple control is to spray the entire tree with a
mist of water then throw ash all over it. Do this a couple of times and they
will be desiccated. Try to stand up-wind!
Managing wind
Fruit trees: Quince fruit seems to stay on despite
summer wind, as do plums, apples, olives and Kentish cherries. Contrary to what
you hear, citrus also seem to thrive on my verandah and in my garden despite
the wind. Young trees bearing fruit will snap off in the wind so staking is
necessary. I espalier my Bramley apple as the fruit are way too big and
prolific for the branches. This means that the trellis takes the weight of the
fruit and far fewer seem to drop off. If you live in a very windy area, I recommend
you espalier the perimeter of your garden with fruit trees, all the way around.
Actually this is a wonderful, practical and beautiful way to grow fruit and is
common in many English and French gardens.
Tomatoes: When I plant my tomatoes out, I push in
next to each one a tall, steel, twisty pole (available at Shiploads). As the
tomato grows, the pole is shaped perfectly so the new tomato growth can be
wound around the pole. Then I make circular,wire cages 720mm diameter and as
high as you can buy the stiff, 50mm hole roll. 1200mm is good here, 1500mm
would be lovely. Mine are only 900mm and is adequate. I bought a 30m roll. It
is excellent quality and will last forever.
|
Seeds to sow in Feb. Broccoli raab Kale Beetroot Shungiku Lettuce Asian greens
(late Feb.) Carrots Spinach &
silver beet Spring onions Leeks Hakurei
turnips Tas. swedes Parsnips Radishes Seeds
to save in Feb Lettuce Shungiku Calendular
marigolds |
Plant out /pot up now, yes now Brussel
sprouts Cauliflower Broccoli – regular,
sprouting and raab Salad
vegetables Leeks Jobs for February Plant, feed
or move citrus Summer prune
stone fruits Prepare beds
for autumn plantings Save seeds
for next spring Mulch with
wet straw/silage Give
flowering veg a dose of potash Preserve,
cook, nourish |
