Land weeds
Hooray, hooray, at my place there have been more than 30mm
of rain this week. It is just a little of what we need but it means our winter
kitchen gardens can now start to grow, and that means the weeds too! Many of
the weeds make excellent winter greens, especially when young. After all, they are
here in Tasmania because someone brought them here, to eat, in the first place,
then they got away.
Many people in Europe still forage, not just for mushrooms,
but for winter herbs and greens and roots which are native to their lands. Many
of them grow wild in our gardens but we silly Australians pull them out,
calling them weeds and give them to the chooks, who happily devour them because
they are not so prejudiced! There is an excellent Australian book called The
Weed Foragers’ Handbook, which I highly recommend. Soon, you will be eating
from the garden without planting anything at all!
Luckily, the cooler weather also heralds the end of the
cabbage moth laying eggs on our brassicas. If you have not planted brassicas
yet, it is now too late as the plants will not have big enough leaves to grow
through winter. When spring comes, they will bolt to seed and you won’t get a
crop.
Autumn is a wonderful time for harvesting mushrooms, kale,
French sorrel, salad leaves, early broccoli, rainbow chard, the last of our
summer vegetables, the first of the winter weeds and a myriad of fabulous
apples, pears and quinces. Many kitchens are bulging at the seams with
preserves. Bring on winter and cosy nights by the fire with some home-made
cassis and quince paste served with a delicious, local cheese! I will be using
my bottled tomatoes all year and smiling every time.
Seaweeds
Wakame (Undaria
pinnatifida) is a common seaweed in Tasmanian waters but it is an
introduced weed, probably arriving on the bottom of Asian ships and making a
home from St. Helens to Dover. You can harvest it (or buy it) to your heart’s
content because you are helping to control its spread. Red Lettuce or Grateloupia
turuturu is another introduced seaweed to the Tasmanian coast.
This one is nutritious and a colourful addition to your meal. Search the
internet for photos so you can identify them. I don’t know of any plants in our
seas that are toxic but, the sad thing is, some of our coastline has been raped
by industry plus land and sea farming which has left toxic residues in our once
pristine waters.
Making the most of chook yard design
You can harvest many products and gain many services from a
well thought out chook yard, besides the obvious eggs. My chooks range under
half a dozen fruit trees. Their kind services here include constant vigilance
for coddlin moth and other pests that overwinter at the base of trees, everyday
manuring, turning of the mulch and eradicating of weeds and grass that
germinates there as well as cleaning up some (but not all) fallen fruit.
The product I appreciate most is their production of the
most beautiful leaf soil from the fallen leaves of two large oak trees that
overhang the chook yard. Thousands of oak leaves fall from now into winter and
form a very thick layer of gorgeous dry leaves which is the playground for the
chooks all winter. They constantly turn it, manure it and crush it, while the rain
dampens it, resulting in a very fine, deliciously soft, quite acidic, leaf
mould or leaf soil by mid spring. I rake it up and spread it around liberally
wherever acid loving plants grow (such as blueberries and strawberries) and
where I am going to plant acid loving plants such as tomatoes. Left for another
year it can be used with sand as a seed raising mix or added to potting mix,
but all this waiting is far too complex for me to organise!
If you don’t have such a luxury, just cover the chook yard
in any old hay, raked up autumn leaves, finished tomato plants etc. Peter
Cundall recommends you throw around some lime under the hay. If you use
dolomite, you will be adding magnesium and it is gentler on chook feet than
other lime too, as they scratch about all winter.
In order to have a constant supply of greenery for chooks,
it is a great idea to surround the perimeter of their yard with things they
like to eat. This is easy to do if you have designed this idea into your food
production system in the first place and placed the chook yard within the
vegetable garden boundary, like a small box inside a larger box, thus making
the outer perimeter of the chook yard, the inner perimeter of the vegetable
garden. Plantings right up against the fence will poke leaves through and even
over into the chook yard and allow the chooks a constant supply of your
favourite vegetables without you having to do anything! Leaving some things to
go to seed and fall into the chook yard will give them a good addition to their
seed intake.
This design also allows you to let them range, from time to
time, in a temporarily fenced section of the vegetable garden simply by opening
one of a serious of gate options. They will eat the grass, remove weed seeds,
manure it and turn it to a fine tilth. Then you simply close the gate, rake it
over and start sowing or planting!
Sow in the garden now |
Plant Now |
Broad
beans Bok
Choy Mustard
greens esp. frilly Miners’
lettuce Corn
salad (mache) Shungiku
(edible, Japanese Chrysanthemum) Radishes Salad
and spring onions Coriander Chervil Sow in the
hothouse to plant out: Lettuces Kales Broccoli
raab Sow to stay in
the hothouse or frost-free area: Sugar
snap peas |
Leek
bulbils Garlic
cloves Large
seedlings of Asian veg. Flower
bulbs Plant and grow
in the hothouse: Celery
(loves it there over winter), 1
or 2 of lots of things, so you can pick a few things when it is raining in
the garden…. lettuce,
parsley, viet. mint, lemon grass, chervil, frilly kale (small variety) for
salads, shungiku, sugar snap peas…. |
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