Hooray for rain; the sound of it on a tin roof at night, the
approach of it across the hills and waterways, the feel of it on my face when I
pop out to feed the chooks and the comfort it brings to gardeners and their gardens,
from the worms and microbes to towering trees. Rain in autumn means everything
is going to be ok.
Autumn is a wonderful time for harvesting mushrooms, kale,
French sorrel, salad leaves, early broccoli, rainbow chard, bok choy, wasabi
greens, the last of our summer vegetables, the first of the edible, winter
weeds and a myriad of fabulous apples, pears and quinces. Many kitchens are
bulging at the seams with preserves. Bring on winter and cosy nights by the
fire with some home-made cassis and quince paste served with a delicious, local
cheese.
The many moods of compost making
I recently attended two fabulous and innovative sessions
which included information on making the most of compost preparation. One of
these was at Government House in Hobart where the compost maker, Jimmy, took us
through current thinking which challenges the aerobic, or lasagne, heap we are
all familiar with. Fermenting, which is anaerobic, as a way of preserving food
and increasing its available nutrients is on everyone’s lips, so to speak. But
fermenting is also useful for improving the diversity and numbers of microbes
in our compost. Here are his guidelines.
Gather your ingredients as usual. Green (leaves etc), brown
(hay, dry leaves etc), high nitrogen (fresh manure/ seed meal).
Spread all
green material in a thin layer, spraying with fine mist of low concentration compost
microbes (available locally). Then spread all the brown/carbon thinly on top and
spray another fine mist on as much material as you can, but without wetting it
too much. The material is actually fairly dry on the whole but seeded up with microbes
across as wide a surface area as possible. The microbes inhabit and colonise
that film of moisture on the organic matter as he understands it, and the
greater the concentration and diversity of microbes the greater the water
retention will be, it will create and hold on to moisture as the fermentation
happens.
Then spread horse or other manure and he also adds some neutrog
seamungus. If they have some food scraps from the bokashi bin in the kitchen he
will throw them on too. This is only small volume but could do way more if they
get more from kitchen.
The ratio he
works to is normally 3 Brown (carbon): 2 Green: 1 High Nitrogen - the idea being
a higher carbon makes the biology of the compost more fungal dominated.
He
sometimes ends up with more like a 3:3:1 which is good too - probably tips the
compost to a more bacterial dominance.
Once all material is spread out thinly (300mm ish deep) and
sprayed/inoculated, I push it all together in a heap so it's all mixed
thoroughly. Compress it down as much as you
can, cover it with a tarp and secure it down. It can be turned anytime
after a couple of weeks. At first turn I spread the pile out and re-apply EM in
50% less concentration.
He finds that one turn at 3-4 weeks then another in another 3-4 then take
off cover and in a couple of weeks its ready to go and full of worms.
How I pickle olives:
So many people
have asked me so here is the answer….
3 kg black
olives, firm but black all over (I have never done it with green)
3 Tbl salt
12 Tbl olive
oil
600mls white /
cider vinegar
1.25 litres
water ( boiled and cooled)
optional : 1
clove garlic / jar
1 small red
chilli (or less)/ jar
dried oregano
or other herbs
After picking, wash then slit each olive on 1 or 2 sides
(depending on how big the olives are. If small, omit this step). Place in a
large, ceramic bowl and cover with ordinary tap water. Try an olive, so you
know what you are starting with. It will be shockingly bitter!
Change the water daily for 10 - 14 days, until you can bite
into one and not spit it out in disgust! It should still have flavour but not
be unbearably bitter nor bland. Strain.
Sterilise some jars (I find 3kg olives makes about 12 medium
jars). Place olives into jars. Putting in some / all / none of the
optional ingredients as you go. (I
usually don't use any now because I prefer the real olive flavour)
Mix the boiled water, vinegar, salt and olive oil in a bowl.
Pour into the jars making sure you cover the olives completely. Put on
well-fitting lids.
Wait at least 2 weeks before starting to eat. You will find
the flavour changes with time - some people prefer them with the 'fresh' taste
you get after 2 weeks, others prefer the more mellow flavour after 6 months or
more.
They should be stored in a cupboard but when you open a jar
put it in the fridge if your kitchen is hot. I always put open jars in the
fridge in summer or they go mouldy, but I never do in winter as I eat them
pretty fast and I don't use huge jars.
Sow in the garden now |
Plant in the garden now |
Broad
beans Bok
Choy Mustard
greens esp. frilly Miners’
lettuce Corn
salad (mache) Shungiku
(edible, Japanese Chrysanthemum) Radishes Salad
and spring onions Coriander Chervil Stinging nettles (for teas and pestos all
winter) |
Leek
bulbils Garlic
cloves Seedlings
of Asian veg. Flower
bulbs Sow in the
hothouse to plant out: Lettuces Kales Broccoli
raab Red
onions Sow to stay in
the hothouse or outside in frost-free areas: Sugar
snap peas |
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