July was terribly dry, with mild nights. Today it is
forecast to snow almost to sea level, with plenty of rain elsewhere. This
winter at the bottom of the world will test the plants and seeds in our gardens
as they try to work out if it is time to grow or best to stay dormant a while
longer. One thing we can be sure of is that it is time to sow tomatoes, as far
off as a summer harvest seems.
Tomatoes
I have written about sowing tomatoes many times. The gist of
it is:
1.
They really do need bottom heat for good
germination. Use a brewer’s mat or terrarium mat or silicone terrarium tube or
lash out on a heated seed raising kit.
2.
Covering the seed tray with a sheet of glass
before germination keeps moisture in and rodents out. This applies to all seed
sowing.
3.
Once germinated, they need LOTS of sun plus the
heat mat. Water sparingly. Use warm water. Water with a weak liquid feed every
couple of weeks.
4.
Pay attention to how they look. Spindly = need
more sun. Yellow = too much water. Not growing = need more warmth or food.
5.
When you pot up, add some blood and bone and
sulphate of potash to the mix. Only pot up to tiny pots, then slightly bigger
and so on, and ONLY when they look too big for the pot they are in.
6.
In Cygnet, I plant mine out in late Nov or early
Dec. They should then be strong, dark green and flowering.
7.
Make sure you prepare the soil now, in your
garden, for planting out. Get all your supplies now, including this next
suggestion….
8.
I make 750mm rounds of sturdy, 100mm-square,
wire mesh, 900 – 1200 high. It comes in 30m lengths. Cut lengths of 2400mm and
you will get 12 rounds. Whites is the only brand I have found here. Chicken
wire is too flimsy for this job.
9.
I now have 2 x 30m rolls. It’s a big outlay, but
I put them around clusters of raspberries and any plants needing support. They
will last forever and never get tangled or squashed etc. Helpful to reduce
swearing in the garden!
10.
I plant my tomatoes 750mm apart and put a mesh
circle over each one, joined one to the next, for strength. I bang in one stake
at the edge of each, for more strength in our windy summers. In the centre,
with each tomato plant, I put a twirly, metal stake (from Shiploads). I keep
all the tomato growth within the circle. I have used this method forever and it
is foolproof. You will find dozens of uses for these circles, after the
tomatoes finish, I assure you.
Annual, biennial, perennial …. in the kitchen garden
Annual means grows to maturity and sets seed in one
year = lettuce, basil, tomatoes, pumpkins. These plants readily self-sow if you
allow the full life cycle to complete. Easy to save the seeds (but some will
cross).
Biennial means it takes 2 years for the whole life
cycle to complete = kale, sprouting broccoli, beetroot, celery. These will also
re-sow, given time. Easy to save the seeds (but some will cross).
Perennial has 2 meanings:
1.
Always visible (but may be deciduous), doesn’t
die down, lives for many years = fruit trees, currants, wasabi, herbs like
rosemary, bay etc. These are generally best propagated by cuttings or grafts.
2.
Grows, dies back to the ground then comes again
next season from the same roots = artichokes, asparagus, rhubarb, tarragon.
This should be labelled herbaceous perennial. These are best propagated by
division.
Curly Leaf
It is time to see that the early fungus that causes leaf
curl on peaches, nectarines and related fruit trees does not get a hold, by spraying
every nook and cranny of every branch, stem and bud with a copper spray. Peter
Cundall recommends Burgundy mix, which you can make yourself, because it does
not clog up the spray nozzle, like Bordeaux can.
Burgundy Mixture:
1. Dissolve
50 gram of washing soda (from supermarket) in 2.5 litres of warm water.
2. Dissolve
50 grams copper sulphate in a separate 2.5 litres of water.
3. Slowly
pour the dissolved washing soda into the dissolved copper sulphate.
4. This is
Burgundy mixture. It is at its most effective strength when freshly mixed so
must be used immediately or within a couple of days.
5. Spray
thoroughly over the bare branches of peach, nectarine and
other stone fruit trees to help control leaf curl and brown rot disease. It is
also useful when sprayed over raspberry canes in late July/early August for
control of raspberry rust
and on apple trees that had scab last year.
The mixture
colours the sprayed plants blue. The spray can withstand light rain but should
be re-applied after persistent rain and done at least twice before any buds
open. Do not spray once the leaves and flowers open.
Plant
and sow in August
Plant
rhubarb, strawberry runners, raspberry canes, asparagus and get all deciduous
trees and shrubs in before they leaf. Start
sowing summer vegetables with bottom heat: ·
Tomatoes ·
Capsicums ·
Chillis ·
Eggplants…. Good luck! And while you are waiting for them to mature,
why not grow some sprouts in the kitchen for a nutritious and delicious treat
for your taste buds and body…. lentils, chickpeas, fenugreek, buckwheat Sow now in trays to plant out later: ·
Onions including red, salad, spring and most
others ·
Broad beans (it is not too late) ·
Coriander ·
Brassicas ·
Asian greens ·
Lettuces ·
Peas to eat as pea shoot microgreens |
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