February 2020 Kitchen Garden Guide

 

So much has happened, in Australia and the world, since my last kitchen garden guide in December. Last year at this time we were in the midst of the fires. More than ever, food security is at risk, making it imperative that communities grow whatever they can for themselves. Tasmania can produce most of what we need, starting in our back yards and those of our neighbours and friends and on the small farms we see dotted about on the hills and valleys of our beautiful state. Bush foods abound too and more and more plants are becoming available at everyday outlets and specialty nurseries, propagated in Tasmania, by Tasmanians, as it should be. We are so very fortunate; let’s make use of our situation and grow food for one another. Check out ‘Crop Swaps’ near you and online.

Potting up seedlings

Locally grown seedlings are a great investment. Mostly, those at the Cygnet market and other markets are grown from seed saved in Tasmania, for Tasmanian conditions. If you, like me, quickly run out of space to plant out winter crops, in the middle of the summer vegetable garden, then transplanting punnet seedlings into individual pots is my suggestion. Brassicas are quite happy to grow this way for quite a while but you will need to pot them up again, into bigger pots, along the way. It is easy to protect them from the cabbage moth, with a wire basket and lace curtain from the tip shop. I use a cheap, basic potting mix to which I add some blood and bone and SeaMungus.

Greenhouse materials

I have a tiny, old, lean-to greenhouse attached to the eastern side of my house. It has proven to be excellent in several ways.

1.   The sides are made of a heavy duty, greenish solarweave film, which lets in lots of light but no direct sun, so everywhere in the greenhouse is brilliantly light but nothing gets burnt or overheated, even on the hottest day.

2.   Being a lean-to, it is quite low on the eastern side so the sun comes through the sloping, plastic roof for quite a while. This is old, floppy plastic film, that also is not clear. It works perfectly but if starting again, I would use coreflute, for longevity.

3.   On the northern and southern ends there are louvre windows, which I keep open most of the year. The door is also on the southern side. A wire screen door would be nice, so animals can’t get in even when the main door is open.

4.   An old brick wall runs in a U shape, along both sides of where I walk in and centre path is also brick. This holds some heat and keeps everything tidy on the raised beds. Instead of soil beds, I would prefer staggered shelves as it really is not necessary to actually grow vegetables for their whole life, in a greenhouse in Tasmania. I use it to start things off, to protect plants from the wind and for cuttings etc. I do, however, grow 6 large pots of basil in there and I have a sticky, nicotiana plant which catches aphids and white fly, growing in the ground. In winter, I bring some pots in, for frost protection, for example ornamental ginger.

5.   The greenhouse sticks out from the house on the northern side and gets many hours of low, winter sun. This is perfect. It is important to look at the angle of the sun from the horizon here, because 43 degrees south brings the sun very low in winter.

6.   The western side is the wall of the house so the greenhouse is totally shaded, but still very light in summer, in the afternoon.

Pear and cherry slug

If you see tiny little black ‘worms’ on the leaves of your pears, cherries, quinces and even plums and the leaves are turning brown and crisp, you have this slug. A simple control is to spray the entire tree with a mist of water then throw ash all over it. Do this a couple of times and they will be desiccated. Try to stand up-wind!

Managing wind

Fruit trees: Quince fruit seems to stay on despite summer wind, as do plums, apples, olives and Kentish cherries. Contrary to what you hear, citrus also seem to thrive on my verandah and in my garden despite the wind. Young trees bearing fruit will snap off in the wind so staking is necessary. I espalier my Bramley apple as the fruit are way too big and prolific for the branches. This means that the trellis takes the weight of the fruit and far fewer seem to drop off. If you live in a very windy area, I recommend you espalier the perimeter of your garden with fruit trees, all the way around. Actually this is a wonderful, practical and beautiful way to grow fruit and is common in many English and French gardens.

Tomatoes: When I plant my tomatoes out, I push in next to each one a tall, steel, twisty pole (available at Shiploads). As the tomato grows, the pole is shaped perfectly so the new tomato growth can be wound around the pole. Then I make circular,wire cages 720mm diameter and as high as you can buy the stiff, 50mm hole roll. 1200mm is good here, 1500mm would be lovely. Mine are only 900mm and is adequate. I bought a 30m roll. It is excellent quality and will last forever.

 

 

 

 

 

Seeds to sow in Feb. Broccoli raab Kale Beetroot Shungiku Lettuce Asian greens (late Feb.) Carrots Spinach & silver beet Spring onions Leeks Hakurei turnips Tas. swedes Parsnips Radishes Seeds to save in Feb Lettuce Shungiku Calendular marigolds

Plant out /pot up now, yes now Brussel sprouts Cauliflower Broccoli – regular, sprouting and raab Salad vegetables Leeks   Jobs for February Plant, feed or move citrus Summer prune stone fruits Prepare beds for autumn plantings Save seeds for next spring Mulch with wet straw/silage Give flowering veg a dose of potash   Preserve, cook, nourish